Three Vintage Ports – one rather unusual!

I uncorked three vintage Ports for the end of a Sunday lunch in October 2023 with two members of the Port Forum. Here are two classics from my cellar along with one rather unusual wine – a varietal Port!

Cálem, Quinta da Foz 1996 ****

This wine is made entirely from Touriga Nacional which is not something that be said legally on the label but the bottle came with accompanying neck tag. Varietal Vintage Ports are rarely if ever bottled other than for experimental purposes. Mid-deep in colour and still youthful in appearance; fragrant, characteristically floral, gentle, slightly lifted aromas; soft supple berry fruit accompanied by some spice and milk chocolate depth, firm tannins and a linear finish, still very much upright if a little one dimensional as you might expect. 17

Dow 1970 ****

Probably UK bottled, no label but stamped with a wax seal: mid-brick red to amber in hue, showing its age; a little hollow on the nose initially, light and lifted; firm, ripe and nicely developed on the palate, still retaining some tannic grip on to the finish. Much better on the palate than on the nose but I fear not a great example of this wine. 17.5

Dow 1966 ****

Oporto bottled: slightly deeper in colour than the 1970, but starting to show its age; well developed on the nose with gentle floral aromas, minty too; a bit leathery on the palate and starting to dry out, elegant with a long, linear finish and a bitter-sweet edge. 18