Single Quinta Vintage Ports from the 2000s

The following wines were presented to me as being good to drink and available for Christmas 2023. Look out for 2012s and ‘13s, the weaker years from an astonishing decade for Vintage Port.

Fonseca, Quinta do Panascal 2004 ***/****

A poor cork, which may account for an oxidised sample of this in the past – mid-deep at the centre, just browning on the rim; ripe, nicely developed floral aromas with some tropical richness and depth just under the surface; similarly fresh and supple on the palate with dark chocolate and a touch of tar mid-palate leading to a nicely defined and fresh plum and berry fruit finish. Mid-weight. Drink now - 2030. 16.5

Croft, Quinta da Roeda 2005 **/***

Mid-deep in colour, turning on the rim; rather flat, meaty and stewed on the nose, possibly oxidation and not getting any better in the glass; much fresher on the palate, soft, ripe plummy fruit and peppery tannins but a little hollow mid palate and on the finish. Drink fairly soon. 14.5

Taylor’s Quinta da Terra Feita 2005 ****

Lovely deep, dark colour, still youthful on the rim; restrained and tight-knit at first on the nose, with beautifully floral fruit just emerging gradually in the glass; firm and elegant with berry fruit backed by firm gravelly-spicy tannins which rise in the mouth to a lovely, fresh linear finish. Not big or bold but graceful and well-defined with fine balance and a long life ahead. Drink now – 2040 18

Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha 2006 ***

Good deep youthful hues; a bit awkward initially on the nose, but opening up to reveal a slightly stewed fruit compote character; rich fruit compote and black cherry on the palate, just a bit pruney too and therefore not really my style, but some may like this, firm dusty-chalky tannins and a rich yet fresh finish. Drink now – 2035 16

Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim 2010 ****

From a large and rather stretched vintage that nevertheless produced some rather charming Ports (and that is not to damn them with faint praise!): deep almost opaque in colour; still a bit sullen on the nose but with underlying stony depth and cassis-like ripeness; fine and firm with beautifully defined cherry stone and berry fruit flavours balanced by good, ripe, spicy tannins leading to a long, linear dryish finish in characteristic Dow style. Lovely now, this will develop well in bottle. Drink now – 2040 17.5

Fonseca Guimaraens 2012 ****

Lovely deep, almost opaque colour; not currently giving a great deal away on the nose, but opening up to reveal gentle peppery berry fruit; fresh, still vibrant on the palate with fresh cassis-like richness backed by a firm dusting of tannin which rise to a lovely gripping finish. Still a youngster and better still with another year or two in bottle. Drink now (just) - 2045 17

Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos 2012 ***/****

Another deep, dark youthful coloured wine but with rather introverted stewed fruit on the nose, not really opening up in the glass, perhaps just a phase; much better and more expressive on the palate with deep, rich, voluptuous dark chocolate concentration and depth with gravelly tannins, still with a bit of a hard edge and a lovely firm if slightly green finish. A good wine that perhaps just needs a bit longer to come together. 2025 - 2045 16.5

Graham’s Quinta da Madelena 2013 ****

Deep opaque, youthful coloured wine; still rather sullen on the nose with nicely defined floral berry fruit emerging and some underlying depth; lovely bitter-sweet wild berry fruit on the palate with firm, gritty tannins rising to a fresh, long gripping finish. Bbalanced and well defined. Drink now (just) – 2045 17.5

Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim 2013 ****

Lovely deep, youthful colour; quite closed initially but opening up slowly in the glass to reveal rather lovely sub-tropical fruit and gum cistus; well-defined yet tight-knit berry fruit and firm spicy tannins with a lovely core, not especially big or deep but very well balanced with a long, linear finish. Just on the cusp of drinking with a long life ahead: now – 2045. 18

Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas 2013

Deep, almost opaque in colour, still youthful in appearance; fine, restrained but characteristically floral fruit, just blossoming on the nose and opening up beautifully in the glass; lovely ripe berry fruit flavours with a hint of minty ripeness backed by firm gravelly tannins which linger on a long vibrant, spicy finish. Lovely now, mid-weight and well-balanced suggesting a long life ahead. Now – 2045 18