Birthday Vintage Port
Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas 1961 **
I bought a dozen bottles of this wine a few years ago with the intention of opening one each year on my birthday (no one had the foresight to lay down any Claret when I was born). Far from being a great Port vintage, the few 1961s that I have tasted (Graham's Malvedos, Wiese & Krohn, a Noval 'Crusted' from 1961 and bottled in 1964) have been soft, simple but have never really disappointed. This bottle was slightly ullaged (high shoulder): pale garnet colour, broad, amber-tawny rim; high-toned and a touch spirity, tawny rather than vintage in style; milk chocolate fruit, soft, sweet and silky initially with tannic grip still evident mid-palate and on to the finish with some soft, lasting creamy sweetness. A curious hybrid in style, perhaps closer to a tawny Port than a fine vintage but a good curiosity nonetheless. 14