MTRC Port Dinner -23

There was no theme to this year’s Port dinner – just a line-up of wines from over three decades brought in by members of the club. Thank you to all those who raided their cellars and shared some good wines. All wines bottled in Gaia, except where stated.

Smith Woodhouse 1997 ****

Deep, rich and youthful in colour and aroma with a hint of dark chocolate and liquorice concentration on the nose and mid-palate, solid structure with lovely plummy fruit on to the finish. Drink Now - 2040 + 17

Skeffington 1994 **/***

Mid-deep youthful centre with a pinkish rim; either dumb or hollow on the nose, suspect the latter; sweet strawberryish fruit, but rather lean and boney, leading to a gentle, elegant finish. Has charm but not much substance. Simple overall.

Quinta do Crasto 1994 */**

Mid-deep in hue, pink on the rim; rather sour and roasted on the nose, not very attractive; similar on the palate, leathery and lumpy in style though the wine finishes quite well with some freshness evident. Perhaps a disappointing bottle?

Dow 1994 *****

Still deep and dark in colour; closed with a lot more to give on the nose; firm (tight knit), ripe and dry in typical Dow style with solid tannic superstructure rising in the mouth, leading to a long, linear finish. Classic Dow and probably the best wine of the vintage. This was the favourite wine in the line up. Drink now (just) – 2060 19

Graham 1983 ****

Mid-deep, retaining a youthful hue; fresh and open on the nose with well-defined berry fruit both on the nose and palate, a touch of medicinal cherry, firm tannins mid-palate and a lovely, graceful finish, not big but nicely poised and balanced. Drink now and over the next 15 years or so. 17.5

Graham 1980 ****

Mid-deep centre, just turning on the rim; elegant floral aromas, fresh mint and a touch of eucalypt with spirit just showing through; lovely, sweet summer fruits and berry fruit, firm spicy tannins mid-palate and on to the finish, still standing up very well. Drink now and over the next 15 years. 17.5

Graham 1977 ***

Now pale in colour and showing its age, light and a bit hollow on the nose, sweet in the Graham’s style with fresh summer fruit, just starting to dry out, elegant, charming but on the light side and, dare I say it a bit simple. Drink soon. 16

Graham 1970 ****

Mid deep colour, on the turn; not showing that well on the nose (showing its age) but retaining lovely firm berry fruit on the palate, lithe and well-defined with fine tannic grip all the way through to the finish. Long and surprisingly elegant but not as good an example as I have had in the past. 17.

Taylor 1966 (bottled by Grants of St James) *****

Pale ruby-pink in hue; fine, spicy and rather exotic on the nose, esteva (gum cistus) and eucalypt; very fine, lithe fresh berry fruit, retaining dark chocolate concentration at its core, still gloriously rich with firm, spicy tannins, rising to a fine, structured finish. Outstanding – may favourite wine in the line-up and the second most voted among fellow tasters. 19