Graham’s The Stone Terraces 2021 Vintage Port – the fifth edition of this ‘micro-terroir’ wine.
The Stone Terraces Vintage Port was first produced in 2011 from two vineyards of just under three hectares on narrow stone terraces at Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos. The 2021 which has just been declared is just the fifth time that the Symington family have chosen to make this wine, following on from 2011, 2015, 2016 and 2017.
The 2021 vintage is unlikely to be widely declared (indeed the Symington family have already opted for single quinta wines from all the houses in their ownership). In contrast to 2022 and 2017, the 2021 growth cycle in the Douro was one of the coolest in recent years, with temperate conditions encouraging slower maturations and even, balanced ripening.
The Malvedos estate is predominantly south-facing but the stone terraces comprise two vineyards with cooler aspects: one facing east and west with the other steeply inclined to the north. The terraces are planted predominantly planted with Touriga Nacional with a few younger vineyards of Touriga Franca, Sousão and Alicante Bouschet. The latter grapes have only became part of the blend in 2021. All these grapes from the two vineyards vines were picked at the same time and co-fermented in robotic lagares.
Despite the relatively cool year, winemaker Charles Symington was taken aback by the quality of the wines from the stone terraces at Quinta dos Malvedos in 2021. The wine was launched in London in May 2023 and shown alongside previous vintages. Graham’s Stone Terraces 2021 will be bottled in May and be available from mid-June 2023. There are just 4,800 numbered 75cl bottles and 280 tappit hens (225cl) representing 2% of the total production at Quinta dos Malvedos in 2021.
I am conscious that I awarded high marks to all these wines when I tasted them in the context of their vintages on declaration (see previous notes on this website). This tasting is an embarras de richesse with all the wines showing well despite their relative youth and receiving nigh on perfect scores. Young vintage Ports can sometimes by sullen, lumpy, raw and hard to taste. There is nothing of that on show here: restraint, definition, poise and purity are the words that sum up these hugely accomplished wines.
Graham’s The Stone Terraces 2021 *****
Gorgeous, deep bright crimson-blue colour; rich but restrained on the nose initially with lovely perfumed, floral fruit emerging in the glass; dense with lovely plum and berry fruit on the palate initially, backed by fine gravelly tannins and spicy grip, rising on to a gentle, soft spicy finish. Despite its youth, there is nothing raw about this wine and it already shows supreme elegance and purity. 19
Graham’s The Stone Terraces 2017 *****
From a contrastingly hot year, widely declared, the earliest harvest on record at Malvedos (until 2022), this is mostly Touriga Nacional: lovely deep blue-black hue; still closed and dense with underlying ripe, plummy, stoney fruit; plum and prune fruit flavours, obviously ripe with warm country (some say ‘tropical’) opulence and a touch of dark chocolate yet retaining delicacy and freshness, ripe tannins and full firm length of flavour with lovely delicacy and poise on the finish. Undeniably ripe in style but also beautifully defined. 19.5
Graham’s The Stone Terraces 2016 *****
From a hotter than average year when all the Douro’s grape varieties seemed to ripen at the same time: not quite as deep in colour as the 2017; opening up to reveal ripe, scented floral fruit, very characteristic of Touriga Nacional yet quite restrained both on the nose and palate with lovely plummy fruit and tropical opulence, backed by soft, gentle dusty tannins, not quite as full flavoured as the 2017 with a lovely, long linear finish. Spellbinding purity. It you appreciate your Vintage Port young and in full bloom, this can be drunk with pleasure already! 19
Graham’s The Stone Terraces 2015 ****/*****
A hot, dry start to the growing season followed by a cooler summer, not widely declared as a Port vintage: very deep, still youthful crimson hues; following the pattern of being ripe and opulent yet restrained on the nose with a hint of liquorice; sweet, minty ripeness on the palate with peppery- spicy tannins, long and linear, verging on boney on the rapier sharp finish. Supremely refined, lovely now and with a long life ahead. 18.5
Graham’s The Stone Terraces 2011 *****
Possibly the best vintage of the last two decades, universally declared: still deep opaque and youthful in appearance; ripe and heady on the nose, not yet giving its all; dark chocolate focus and intensity with morello cherry sweetness backed by soft, refined tannins which rise in the mouth to a multi-dimensional finish with marked freshness and poise. Whereas some of the other wines here can be broached already, this really needs more time. Drink from 2031. 20
