2020 Vintage Ports
After a run of fully declared years from 2016 – 2019, the year of the Covid pandemic presented a few more challenges both in the vineyard and the adega. Carlos Alves, winemaker at Sogevinus concluded that the year ‘was marked by a series of adversities that made this one of the most challenging years in my career’ but it was ‘a vintage that exceeded all expectations.’ They declared across the board. The Symington family, celebrating 200 years of Graham’s and 350 years of Warre’s concluded that the Cima Corgo produced wines of ‘extraordinary quality in minute quantities.’ The result is two limited edition Vintage Ports from both these houses and a single quinta wine from Dow (not tasted here). The Fladgate Partnership, having declared Taylors for three years in a row in 2016, ‘17 and ’18, chose to declare a single quinta wine from Vargellas which will be released at a later date. When I spoke to David Guimareans (winemaker for the Fladgate Partnership), he was not a fan of 2020 – ‘lots of colour but unbalanced’ he said.
After three dry winters in row, rain fell in 2019/20. Bud burst was early and the period from March to June was warm with interspersed with more rainfall which ensured sufficient ground water for the rest of the growing season. The first flowering was recorded at the start of May and continued rainfall meant that growers had to be vigilant when it came to outbreaks of downy and powdery mildew. Yields were already looking small when temperatures rose suddenly to 40oC in late June (the so called escaldão de São João). The pintor (veraison) came early during the hottest July since 1931 when records began. With low levels of humidity, some exposed bunches and berries were burnt by the sun. Fortunately August was milder and with low yields and good water reserves in the soil, ripening was both even and rapid. There was a small amount of rain in mid-late August which further accelerated the ripening process and by the start of September harvest was underway in A-grade vineyards throughout the region, a good two weeks earlier than normal. (Twenty years ago my rule of thumb for the start of picking in the Cima Corgo was the closest Monday to 21st September).
The problem for winemakers in 2020 was that all the grapes ripened at the same time. There is usually a two-to-three week interval between picking Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca but in 2020 both these grapes ripened in unison. They were often co-fermented to make maximum use of space in the adega. This, according to Charles Symington, produced an ‘increased in complexity’ with wines that are ‘layered’ and ‘integrated’ as a result. Average yields were the lowest this century and so the harvest was over quickly. Apart from at Churchill (see below) no foot treading took place due to the Covid pandemic. Producers equipped with mechanical extraction / robotic treading were well placed to make good wines. (As a consequence there will be no Quinta do Vesúvio in 2020 where all the port wine grapes are food trodden). Many of the best wines came from higher altitude vineyards where ripening was slightly slower. If global warming continues this puts the benefício system into question where vineyards rated ‘Grade A’ are those at lower altitudes close to the river.
Having tasted a range of wines from 2020 including ‘classic’ declarations from a number of shippers I can conclude that the best wines are aromatic, concentrated and surprisingly fresh without any of the stewed or roasted aromas and flavours that sometimes emanate from hot years. Old vines (which root down as far as 8 metres) and rigorous selection were the key to success in 2020. Quantities are therefore small.
The following wines were not all tasted at the same time so they are not presented as a comparison, other than those from the same stable (Sogevinus, Noval, Symington etc.). They are listed in my order preference rather than the order they were tasted.
Quinta do Noval Nacional 2020 *****
Grapes from the ungrafted Nacional parcel ripened early in 2020 and was harvested in one day on 17th September: deepest inky crimson-black colour; sullen and dense on the nose but with underlying opulence; amazing depth and concentration, nothing raw about this despite its youth: broad, ripe gravelly tannins, focused with glorious spice and richness, big and broad on the finish but with remarkable freshness and finesse for such a hot year. A ‘wow’ of a wine with a lifetime or more in bottle ahead. Just 160 cases in total. Drink 2043 – 2100 + 19.5
Warre ‘Vinhas Velhas’ 2020 *****
Warre celebrated its 350th anniversary in 2020 and this wine comes entirely from 80 – 100 year old vines at Quinta do Bom Retiro in the lower Torto Valley and Quinta da Cavadinha above the River Pinhão. Yields were so low that it took three vines to produce one bottle of vintage port (usually it is one vine to a bottle). Lovely deep, opaque crimson hue; beautifully expressive and aromatic on the nose with a ripe minty, floral scent with a touch of tropicality (pineapple) and a haunting undertone of esteva (gum cistus); unusually soft and silky initially with well-defined, fresh-picked plum and back cherry fruit backed by a tight-knit tannic core giving focus to the wine. Beautifully structured with a long, fresh linear finish. Already fine and elegant in its first flush of youth. Just 2,400 bottles. Drink 2035 – 2060 + 19
Graham 2020 ****/*****
Made from fruit grown in three Cima Corgo quintas (Malvedos, Tua and Vila Velha) with Touriga Franca the leading grape (40%) and nearly as much Sousão (22%) as Touriga Nacional. Deep, opaque but more ‘blue’ than Warre; quite closed, dense with underlying ripeness and a hint of mint, eucalypt and pine; rich, luscious and dense, ripe pluumy fruit backed by firm dusty-gravelly tannins followed by a broad ripe finish. Layered and very impressive but not as fresh or well defined as Warre. 3,000 bottles. Drink: 2040 - 2060 + 18.5
Quinta do Noval 2020 ****/*****
Wonderful inky-crimson colour; closing down on the nose but with underlying ripe plum and berry fruit, almost minty and exotic in its ripeness; made in a deliberately rich style with more residual sugar than normal, dense on the palate with broad ripe, gravelly tannins and a big expansive finish. Still a little raw but with beautiful opulence overall with nothing baked or stewed here despite the heat and power of the vintage. Drink: 2038 – 2060 + 18.5
Churchill 2000 ****
Foot trodden (with social distancing in force – must have been interesting): deep and dense with lovely ripe aromatics and ripe black cherry intensity on the nose, almost opulent but not quite; rich and muscular with broad ripe tannins backing up vibrant fruit, leading to a ripe, supple finish. All there, well-structured and very impressive with a lovely thread of acidity through the finish. Drink 2035 – 2060. 3200 cases. 18
Kopke 2000 ****
Made up from 65% old vines (Quinta de São Luíz) and 35% Touriga Nacional: very deep, opaque ‘blue’-violet colour; lovely ripe, heady nose with well-defined cassis and berry fruit with a strong floral element (presumably the Touriga Nacional); powerful and mouthfilling with muscular gritty tannins and fresh but full berry fruit, long and lithe without any trace of heat and a firm, if still slightly raw, finish. 6875 bottles. Drink 2035 – 2060. 17
Churchill, Quinta da Gricha 2000 ***/****
From cooler north-facing vineyards according to Johnny Graham: deep ‘blue’-black in colour with lovely, ripe berry fruit aromas and some depth and intensity; not as big or broad as Churchill (above) but fresh and well defined with good gripping tannins and sharing that lovely thread of acidity on a long, elegant finish. 600 cases. Drink from 2030 - 2050. 16.5
Cálem 2000 ***
A blend of Touriga Franca (45%), Touriga Nacional (20%), Tinta Roriz (20%) and Sousão (15%): good, deep opaque colour; quite restrained on the nose, heady with a hint of stewed plum; soft initially, blueberry fruit with firm, peppery tannins rising in the mouth on to a vibrant if slightly edgy finish which needs time to knit together. Fresh and well balanced but not a heavy weight. 5230 bottles. Drink from 2032 – 2055. 15.5
Barros 2000 ***
A blend of 45% each of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional with Tinta Roriz and Sousão at 5% each: good deep colour; not very expressive on the nose, floral aromas, a hint of kirsch but perhaps a bit hollow; firm cherry stone fruit, a touch of graphite, pronounced, rather lean peppery tannins, fresh and well-defined but lacking in flesh and breadth overall. Drink from 2030. 5095 bottles. 15
Burmester 2000 **/***
A blend of 46% Touriga Franca and 40% Touriga Nacional with Tinta Roriz and Alicante Bouschet: deep and nearly opaque in colour with open, expressive, ripe aromas of warm country fruit; firm rather angular tannins to the fore with fresh, sweet berry fruit continuing on to the finish when the structure rather falls away. Nice definition if a bit simple and lacking substance. Drink from 2030. 6895 bottles. 14.5
