Fine, mature Rioja

Viña Ardanza, Bodegas La Rioja Alta, Reserva 1996  ****

Bodegas La Rioja Alta make some of the finest traditional Riojas that combine the elegance of Tempranillo fruit with age. Despite the many changes in the region since I first came to know it in the mid-1980s La Rioja Alta have built on and maintained their very individual house style without cutting any corners.  Mid-deep with a brick red / amber rim; lovely, scented fruit embellished by savoury - leather oak, an exquisite combination; soft, elegant sweet fruit, supple and  refined with great balance and poise, slightly dusty tannins, a touch of tobacco but not drying out. Very fine. 18