A Remarkable Wine from 1917

Balthazar, 1917 ****/*****

The wine originated from the family of Baltazar de Andrade Gonçalves (hence the name) and was produced at Quinta dos Reis just above the modern-day Via Rapida where it cuts through Santa Luzia in Funchal. Apparently the traditional lagar is still in situ even though the vineyards are long gone. This wine almost certainly came from the Grabham collection given the label and provenance. Bottled 1930, uncorked and tasted in 2022: bright, mid-amber with a reddish glint, delicate, lifted/high toned and suprisingly spirity for a wine of this age, slightly floral with dried apricot aromas; soft, delicate dried apricot character, off-dry, fine acidity, balanced with a lovely, long filigree finish. 18.5