A Fine Madeira from Lomelino

Lomelino Malvazia 1906 ****/*****

I have always had a soft spot for Lomelino, a house that became subsumed into the Madeira Wine Company in 1934. This is a bottle from my own cellar, purchased some years ago from Patrick Grubb. It didn't disappoint: deep red-tinged mahogany; wonderfully lifted and very expressive on the nose, rich, intense and slightly singed; similarly expressive on the palate, liquorous richness offset by stark acidity and a long rapier-like finish. Not that sweet for a Malvazia. 18.5